The Longest Living Fashion Statement: The Women’s Pump
Vincent Ventola // AMH 4112.001 – The Atlantic World, 1400-1900
In the past, women as well as men and children wore pumps, or shoes; these pumps are very similar to what we know as pumps or heels in the 21st century.[1] In the 18th century, pumps were also worn during special occasions, just like they are today. However, they were crafted in a different manner than today. They used materials such as silk, glass, and metal.[2] Where as today it is mostly out of leather and modern materials. When looking at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s shoe collections, you find many different variations of shoes produced during the 18th century.[3] Floral patterns, as well as very colorful patterns, were very common for women of this period. Some pumps had a buckle as well as some with rhinestones, to show wealth and class. Pumps were worn in very social settings, so mostly women that could afford shoes for form over functionality were the main ones wearing pumps in the 18th century.
You aren’t able to tell much what the pumps looked like from Glassford and Henderson’s Colchester store’s 1760-1761 Ready Money ledgers.[4] Because the pumps were sold at a store, they were unlikely to be made-to-order shoes, but more likely represented the most current fashions from Glasgow or London. According to the Ready Money accounts in November, 1760, only five pairs of pumps (described a as single or double channeled or boys) were bought. On one occasion buckles were also purchased which may have been acquired to complement the pumps.[5] In November 1760, only four additional pairs of shoes were purchased in the same month, all of which were less expensive than the pumps.
Women, just like today, loved wearing heels to show off to others. They obviously wanted the most decorated and classiest pump for their special event. Pumps were basic fashion for women in the 18th century and it correlates to the women of today. There was a sense of fashion back then, especially since their pumps were handmade.
[1]Elisabeth McClellan. “Women’s Dress 1700-1800.” Historic Dress in America 1607-1800. N.p.: GeorgeW. Jacobs, 1904. pp. 391.
[2] The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Shoes, 1760-79, Accession Number: 11.60.198a, b, http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/98056 (Accessed 5 December 2016).
[3] Ibid.
[4]Alexander Henderson, et. al. Ledger 1760-1761, Colchester, Virginia Folio 10-13 Debit/Credit, from the John Glassford and Company Records, Manuscript Division, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C., Microfilm Reel 58 (owned by the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association).
[5] Henderson, et. al. Ledger 1760-1761, Colchester, Virginia Folio 10 Debit/Credit.