Tag: Shoes

Danielle Roper // AMH 4112.001 – The Atlantic World, 1400-1900

Calamanco shoes were a women’s shoe in the 18^th century that were often purchased and worn by members of the upper class. Calamanco is a glossy woolen cloth that is checkered on one side. Lower class women’s shoes would be made of a more durable leather, whereas upper class women’s shoes were made of materials like silk, satin, or calamanco. They were less sturdy than those shoes made of leather and would not be able to withstand a significant amount of rigorous activity. This would make sense given that upper class women would be more likely to afford servants to do their house work for them. Women of the lower class needed shoes that could withstand the many household chores they had to accomplish.^[1]

Shoe sizing in the eighteenth century was less precise and consistent so many of the wealthy would send sketches of their feet to special order their shoes.^[2] Buckles were often purchased alongside these Calamanco shoes and would be used as a symbol of one’s status and wealth.^[3] This can be seen in the ready money accounts of Glassford and Henderson’s Colchester store (1760-1761), when Mrs. Jean Turley purchased one pair of Calamanco shoes along with two pairs of buckles, ribbon, and stays.^[4] These purchases could possibly reflect that Mrs. Turley was planning to attend some sort of social event, perhaps a ball.  Looking through the shoe purchases in the Ready Money accounts, Calamanco shoes were rarely bought with cash, only being purchased four times.^[5] However, regular women’s shoes were purchased twenty-two times.  Mrs. Turley paid only four shillings and four pence for her pair of Calamanco shoes; however, the price in the Ready Money accounts was nearly double that at seven shillings and six pence (with one pair being as much as eight shillings). A ‘woman’s shoe’ in the Ready Money account was valued around five shillings and six shillings. Rather than indicating the luxurious nature of the calamanco shoe, this trend may demonstrate the fact that shoes were simply just generally expensive during colonial times, especially when paid for with cash.

Infographic on Calamanco Shoes

^[1]   Linda Baumgarten. Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg. (Williamsburg, Va: Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1986).; Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil. “Walking the Streets of London and Paris: Shoes in the Enlightenment” in Shoes: a History from Sandals to Sneakers. Edited by Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello. (Oxford ; New York :Berg, 2006).

^[2] Ibid.

^[3] Ibid.

^[4] Alexander Henderson, et. al.  Ledger 1760-1761, Colchester, Virginia folio 131 Debit, from the John Glassford and Company Records, Manuscript Division, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C., Microfilm Reel 58 (owned by the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association).

^[5] Henderson, et. al., Folio 10-13 Debit/Credit.

Vincent Ventola // AMH 4112.001 – The Atlantic World, 1400-1900

In the past, women as well as men and children wore pumps, or shoes; these pumps are very similar to what we know as pumps or heels in the 21^st century.^[1]  In the 18^th century, pumps were also worn during special occasions, just like they are today. However, they were crafted in a different manner than today.  They used materials such as silk, glass, and metal.^[2] Where as today it is mostly out of leather and modern materials. When looking at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s shoe collections, you find many different variations of shoes produced during the 18^th century.^[3]  Floral patterns, as well as very colorful patterns, were very common for women of this period. Some pumps had a buckle as well as some with rhinestones, to show wealth and class.  Pumps were worn in very social settings, so mostly women that could afford shoes for form over functionality were the main ones wearing pumps in the 18^th century.

You aren’t able to tell much what the pumps looked like from Glassford and Henderson’s Colchester store’s 1760-1761 Ready Money ledgers.^[4]  Because the pumps were sold at a store, they were unlikely to be made-to-order shoes, but more likely represented the most current fashions from Glasgow or London.  According to the Ready Money accounts in November, 1760, only five pairs of pumps (described a as single or double channeled or boys) were bought. On one occasion buckles were also purchased which may have been acquired to complement the pumps.^[5]  In November 1760, only four additional pairs of shoes were purchased in the same month, all of which were less expensive than the pumps.

Women, just like today, loved wearing heels to show off to others.  They obviously wanted the most decorated and classiest pump for their special event.  Pumps were basic fashion for women in the 18^th century and it correlates to the women of today.  There was a sense of fashion back then, especially since their pumps were handmade.

Infographic on Pumps

^[1]Elisabeth McClellan. “Women’s Dress 1700-1800.” Historic Dress in America 1607-1800. N.p.: GeorgeW. Jacobs, 1904. pp. 391.

^[2] The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Shoes, 1760-79, Accession Number: 11.60.198a, b, http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/98056 (Accessed 5 December 2016).

^[3] Ibid.

^[4]Alexander Henderson, et. al.  Ledger 1760-1761, Colchester, Virginia Folio 10-13 Debit/Credit, from the John Glassford and Company Records, Manuscript Division, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C., Microfilm Reel 58 (owned by the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association).

^[5] Henderson, et. al.  Ledger 1760-1761, Colchester, Virginia Folio 10 Debit/Credit.